In Search of the Cozy French Bistro

I stepped off a winding side street in Saint-Germain-des-Prés through an etched glass door held open by the friendly uniformed doorman. As I took in the dining room’s red velvet banquette seating, dark wood paneling, copper lamps, and many old world illustrations on the papered walls, I had the feeling I was being whisked away to 1930s Paris, when this classic French bistro was owned by Marthe and Marcel Allard. Today, Alain Ducasse’s restaurant empire runs Allard, and an evening there is played out with exquisite simplicity.

After sliding into my corner red booth, my meal began with massive toasted buttery croutons and caramelized bacon lardons topped with a refreshing salad of friseé in a piquant mustard vinaigrette.  My favorite dish, the ox beef cheeks with roasted carrots, was simply put — tender luxury presented on a silver plate.  Then, for dessert, I chose the pear vacherin, and when what looked like a fairytale object of temptation arrived, I dipped my spoon into the glistening golden poached pear atop chestnuts and vanilla Chantilly cream and savored the refreshing sweetness.

A Female-Run Kitchen to Continue Marthe Allard’s Legacy

On my way out of Allard, after the manager draped my coat over my shoulders, I peaked into the kitchen and saw the profile of Chef Fanny Herpin, her back against the wall as she faced her team, instructing them what ingredient to tweak before a plate was released for its final destination.

“Yes, Chef,” they said while their hands executed the command with delicate precision, before the dish was swept away to a waiting table.

I do not need an excuse to make Allard my dinner table every night, but if a day is cold and rainy, that is where you will find me.

Allard
41 Rue Saint-André des Arts
Paris, France 75006